Stampede trail, September, 2nd

A harsh ride brings us on the shores of this most remote lake. Soon the jeep arrives. We spend two rainy days there. Net fishing isn't good at all. We stay in the tents.

Around the lakes (Map of Tuva Republic)
Around the lakes
As the chopper lands, our horses stampede (Tuva Republic)
As the chopper lands, our horses stampede
Suddenly, in the afternoon of the second day, clouds disappear and the sun shines over the lake. But what really gets us out of the tent is the characteristic buzzing of a helicopter. It is a huge, yellow Aeroflot one. The MI-8, originally designed for the army, is now widely used throughout ex-USSR, from Pamir to Kamchatka. It carries over fifteen people with their gear. The unwieldy bird turns above us once, twice, observing. Deafening sounds and destabilizing winds terrorize the four horses who stampede, run away and disappear in the distance. Nothing to do about it.
Finally, it decides to land 50 meters away from my weak igloo-type tent. Jonathan and I bend over it, holding it as best as possible. Flaps slow down, the tent is still standing. We breathe again. With a discreet smile to fate, we see rangers coming down from the machine. As they directly go questioning the innocent fishermen, a westerner sneaks out of the MI-8 followed by a crew of Muscovite experts.
The MI-8 lands in a deafening uproar. (Tuva Republic)
The MI-8 lands in a deafening uproar.
Jonathan holds my tent on the point to fly away. (Tuva Republic)
Jonathan holds my tent on the point to fly away.

Naturally, we introduce ourselves. The westerner is an Australian working indirectly for the UNESCO in Geneva, surveying the area, with Russian Green Peace representatives, as it applies for a mention on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Our Tuvan companions all get a fine and their inflatable boat confiscated, while we, westerners, don't even get the traditional passport control! This kindness towards those tourists will, for sure, make a good impression on the international inspector.

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